Sunday, April 26, 2009

LOG CABIN PROJECT DAY ONE - PART 3


COPYRIGHT NOTICE:  THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS, PHOTOS, AND THE DESIGN ITSELF IS MY OWN PERSONAL WORK AND PROPERTY. IT IS PRESENTED HERE FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY AND IS NOT TO BE SOLD FOR PROFIT, NOR MAY IT BE PUBLISHED ELSEWHERE WITHOUT EXPRESS WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM THE AUTHOR. PLEASE RESPECT THE PERSONAL AND CREATIVE RIGHTS OF OTHERS.

DAY ONE (CONTINUED) - Finally, the floor.

Step Five - Installing The Floor Beams 

a) Take a scrap of mountboard, cereal box, off cuts from Woodies or whatever you have handy and cut out 4-6 1/4 squares, then cut these in half to form right-angled triangles. Glue as many triangle layers together as you need to make a stack that when placed on the template area will end up even with the top of the foundation row, ensuring you keep the pieces lined up. Make 4 of these and glue them to the inside corners of the frame to assist in holding the floor level.


b) Carefully measure the empty space inside your foundation. If you have used the same matches I did, it will be 1 3/8" X 1 3/4". If not, you may have to make minor adjustments when cutting the actual floor, so record your measurements if they are different. Take 3 uncut matchsticks, cut off the business ends and then trim to 1 3/8"(or your cabin's depth) so they fit neatly inside the foundation from front to back and act as floor beams. Glue one in place down the middle of the cabin, parallel to the end walls, then add the other two, one on either side of the centre about midway between the edge of the triangles and the centre beam.


Step Six - Installing the Ground Floor 

a) Prepare your flooring material by marking off boards, staining etc...... as desired. Prepare enough to make 3 or 4 full floors so if you goof, you don't have to stop and finish more. Besides, you can always use it in another project. GOOF ALERT: Seal the flooring material with a matte finish now, before you forget. It's is devilshly difficult to apply once the walls are up without getting any on the walls. 


b) Cut a piece of your flooring to the dimensions determined previously PLUS another 1/16" on all sides for safety. Test fit the piece on the beams and carefully trim it back until the edge of the flooring overlaps the frame logs by the thickness of a human hair. You want it to be slightly tucked between the slightly rounded edges of the foundation logs and the first layer of wall logs without any gaps but not sticking in so far that it creates a visible line around the outside of the cabin or forces the logs to tip so the rest of the wall isn't perpendicular to the floor. Glue the floor in place attaching it to the beams and the corner supports. Let dry for 10 minutes under a weight while you recover from reading a "how-to-do-it" that takes 3 times as long as the "do-it' part does. 

GOOF ALERT: When cutting wood veneer it will always want to splinter on one of the sides, usually the last one you cut, so leave extra room for this. Extra wood can be sanded or shaved off gently, but you can't glue it back on.    


COMING SOON TO A COMPUTER SCREEN NEAR YOU .............. AN OLD-FASHIONED "CABIN RAISING BEE" WITH FREE FOOD AND DRINK AND TONS OF FUN FOR ALL! SEE YOU THERE.


Many Mini Hugs.

minimadgal, member of GSGOLFOT

LOG CABIN PROJECT - DAY ONE, PART 2.


COPYRIGHT NOTICE:  THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS, PHOTOS, AND THE DESIGN ITSELF IS MY OWN PERSONAL WORK AND PROPERTY. IT IS PRESENTED HERE FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY AND IS NOT TO BE SOLD FOR PROFIT, NOR MAY IT BE PUBLISHED ELSEWHERE WITHOUT EXPRESS WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM THE AUTHOR. PLEASE RESPECT THE PERSONAL AND CREATIVE RIGHTS OF OTHERS.

PART ONE (continued)

Step Three- Preparing the Front and Back of the Foundation Row

a) Take another match stick and trim 1/2" from one end. (Save these bits as they come in handy later.) Make a step at each end of this piece. Take another match stick and make a step at one end, then splice these pieces together by gluing the two together where the steps slot together. GOOF ALERT: Ensure that sure the joint is straight so the 2 pieces form a straight line, then place something with a bit of weight on top (coffee mug, sauce bottle, tin can, your foot). 

b) Make another piece the same way, then while the 2 joins are firming up, decapitate some more matches (20 will do for now), and make a step on ONE end of each. These will be used to start the ends and parts of the front wall.  

c) Now the glue has dried, take one of the joined pieces and lay it along one long side of your template with the stepped end right on the edge of one corner. Use a pencil to mark where the piece crosses over the template outline, and trim off the excess wood. Make a step on the newly cut end, then do the same to the other joined piece. GOOF ALERT: Make sure the step ends up on the same side of the log as the first one. Sounds basic, doesn't it? But sooner or later i guarantee you'll forget to check the other end right before you make that first shallow cut. 


Step Four - Assembling the Foundation Row - NOTE: Mess this up and your cabin is doomed!!!  


For a free-standing house: 

a) On the template, place 2 small dots of glue along the back wall line and carefully position one of the joined pieces with the cut-out step facing up. Make sure it is lying directly along the line, then do the same thing with the other joined piece on the front wall line. (The glue is just there for now to help keep things lined up to the template.) Take one end piece from Step Two and test fit it, placing the stepped side down so it interlocks with the ends of the the back piece. File a bit if necessary and when the fit is good, apply glue to the stepped areas as well as one or two drops along the bottom so it will stick to the template. Check that the corner is square (Lego time), then do the same thing at the other end, again making sure everything is square. Apply weight as before to the entire frame and let it dry. Let it dry more, and then some more. Ahhhh fiddlesticks, take a 30 minute break. Walk the dog, water the plants, surf the net for images of log cabin interiors,  fold the laundry, have a cup of tea, tidy up your work space or anything else that gives this essential construction time to REALLY dry for 30-40 minutes. 


b) For a direct mount: 

Assemble as above but glue the pieces securely to your base as well as gluing the stepped ends. Then you can go on to the alternate activity of your choice for 30-40 minutes.


Now it's time for me to take a break to go out for brunch with my 2 daughters and some friends before I post the final part of Day One's instructions. My frame is now under a jam jar and by the time I get back, it should be ready for the final steps.


Mini Hugs. minimadgal, member of GSOLFOT


LOG CABIN PROJECT - DAY ONE, PART 1


COPYRIGHT NOTICE:  THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS, PHOTOS, AND THE DESIGN ITSELF IS MY OWN PERSONAL WORK AND PROPERTY. IT IS PRESENTED HERE FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY AND IS NOT TO BE SOLD FOR PROFIT, NOR MAY IT BE PUBLISHED ELSEWHERE WITHOUT EXPRESS WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM THE AUTHOR. PLEASE RESPECT THE PERSONAL AND CREATIVE RIGHTS OF OTHERS.


INTRODUCTION:

I"m using matchsticks, which are not smooth or even, and sometimes vary a bit in thickness but that's OK. This is a pioneer style, single room cabin with a loft, made from local materials using only an axe and a saw, not a Chippendale chair. So leave the wood just as it is, flaws and all, for a more realistic look.


Before I forget, the following items are helpful but not necessary: 

-some Lego blocks to help make corners square, and walls upright.

-small clamps or clothespins

-a scrap of wood that can be used to ensure end the of the logs line up

   inside the door and window openings and along back ends of the     

   side walls


GENERAL MEASUREMENT HINT: Always use the exact same ruler for every measurement you make on a given project, especially in 144th. Two corkbacked 6" green metal rulers from the local office supply store may look identical, both made in China and bearing the store's logo, but depending on the location of the factory that actually made each one, you may find you have two different rulers. I have 3 such rulers and all are different with only one being accurate when tested against my digital callipers.


THE BASE ROWS - Making the foundation

 

Step One - Make a template

Decide whether you want to build your cabin directly onto a larger  base or make it free-standing and then mount it on a base. I'm doing mine free-standing for now because the base I will attach it to will depend on how much or little landscaping I am willing to do and how big the plexiglass box I still have to buy will be.

For a free-standing cabin, draw a perfect rectangle measuring 1 1/2" by 2" on a small piece of plain paper. Label one long edge "Back". This will be your template for the walls so make sure it is accurate! For a direct mounted cabin, draw the shape directly on the base where you want the cabin to sit. Don't forget to plan for a path, woodpile,water barrel etc..... and label one long edge "Back". 


Step Two - Preparing the Ends of the Foundation Row

Using your tool of choice remove the business end of 6 matches clipping as close to the coating as possible without setting yourself on fire. The pieces left should be 1.75" long, so trim or file them if needed. Dispose of the business ends. Take one of the sticks, and using a craft knife make a shallow cut across one end going just halfway through the wood, at a distance of one matchstick thickness from the end. Repeat for the other end. Now turn the matchstick on it's side, and carefully slice up from the end to the cut you just made, removing a chunk of wood and forming a little step. Trim the step if needed to make it exactly half the thickness of the toothpick. Repeat for the other end. These 2 logs will form the 2 ends of the base layer. Set aside. (continued in Part 2)

Friday, April 24, 2009

NEW PROJECT - 144th Log Cabin - Materials









    MATERIALS NEEDED



I've  decided what I will work on next, and it is one of my own designs reduced from 1:48 to 144th scale. (Did I mention earlier that I have masochistic tendencies?) Photos of the original cabin are here: http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/8806695 

I've gathered the materials together so if you want to make it along with me, here's a materials list:
2 boxes of 30 pocket size wood matches (I used Red Bird brand). Kitchen matches       can be used but unless you shave them down, they will be way out of scale. You will         use only 45-50 allowing for goofs, but the boxes are perfect for matchbox scenes.
A scrap of foamcore board about 3 inches square for the fireplace and chimney.
A small piece of mountboard, illustration board, or thin wood for the base the cabin will sit on.
Scraps of thin wood (or heavy cardstock if wood is not available). I have part of a wooden coffee stir stick, scraps of Woodies and a 2"x2" piece of dark woodgrain I had printed on cardstock (for the wood floor) that I had left from another project. Veneer works too, or print off some wood texture onto cardstock or even use plain card painted and drybrushed to look like wood.
Small amounts of black, green and brown craft or tempera paint.
A brush-on water based matte sealer.
Something like PolyFilla, spackle, stucco mix, or even white craft paint thickened with baby powder for the caulking between the logs.
Optional: A good handful of teeny-tiny rocks from a playground area or gravel path to use for the fireplace and chimney.   
Tacky glue, scissors, ruler, tweezers, emery board and anything else you usually need. 

OK, that's it for tonight as my hairy-faced children need to go for a walk. My next post will cover getting started on the cabin.

Until then, may all your problems be mini.

Min Hugs.
minimadgal, member of GSOLFOT



   

FREE DOLLHOUSE PROJECT #1 - 1/12 Office Whiteboard


I'm back! I thought that somebody might have a need for an office whiteboard and as it so happens, I have a project sheet all made up. If you save it to your hard drive, then use print preview to ensure it looks like it does in the blog image BUT if it doesn't, try adjusting the scale of the print until it does. For 1:24 scenes, set to print at 50%. Have fun! 
Miini Hugs.
minimadgal, member of GSOLFOT

WELCOME!

Welcome to my blogspace. There's not much here yet, but what do you expect after less than 15 minutes of life?  :-)  This will be my own little soapbox from which I will sometimes rant and rave, but from which I also plan to share free resources for miniaturists working in smaller scales such as printies, tutorials, patterns, videos, hints and tips and the like. Along the way I'll be recording in words and photos my progress on various projects, along with noting problems and (hopefully) solutions as I come across them in the construction process in hopes it may help someone else avoid them in the future. So if you are looking for unique miniature project how- tos as well as how-not-to-dos advice, keep watching this blog. 
Mini Hugs.
minimadgal, member of GSOLFOT